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Fibers yog lub hauv paus ntawm kev lag luam textile. Tag nrho cov textiles yog ua los ntawm fibers. Txhawm rau tshawb fawb lossis sib tham lossis siv lawv yooj yim, fibers feem ntau yog pawg. Raws li lawv cov tshuaj muaj pes tsawg leeg, fibers tuaj yeem muab faib ua ntau pawg xws li cellulosic fiber, protein fiber thiab txiv neej ua fiber ntau.
Cov cellulosic fibers yog cov tsim los ntawm cov cellulose ntshiab, lawv muaj peev xwm muab faib ua ob pawg: natural cellulosic fibers xws li paj rwb, flax, hemp, thiab ramie thiab lwm yam., thiab regenerated cellulosic fibers xws li viscose, cuprammonium, acetate thiab lwm yam. ntau cellulosic fibers tsuas yog cov uas nquag siv xwb -- paj rwb, flax thiab viscose yuav raug txiav txim siab ntawm no.
Paj rwb
Paj rwb yog nyob deb ntawm cov ntaub ntawv tseem ceeb tshaj plaws thiab ua rau ze li 5O feem pua ntawm tag nrho qhov hnyav ntawm fibers siv hauv ntiaj teb. Paj rwb yog tau los ntawm cov paj rwb uas loj hlob nyob rau hauv huab cua sov nyob rau hauv feem ntau ntawm lub ntiaj teb no.
Raws li cov paj rwb fiber ntau tau los ntawm cov nroj tsuag nws yog cais raws li ntuj, cellulose, noob, non-cellular, staple fiber. Qhov ceev ntawm fiber ntau yog 1.52g / cm33, uas ua rau paj rwb ib qho hnyav fiber ntau.
Nyob rau hauv lub microscope, paj rwb fiber ntau zoo nkaus li zoo heev, tsis tu ncua fiber ntau. Nws muaj qhov ntev ntawm li 10 hli mus rau 65 hli, nyob ntawm qhov zoo ntawm fiber ntau. Qhov ntev ntawm cov khoom siv fiber ntau yog qhov tseem ceeb hauv kev tig yan. Qhov no yog tshwj xeeb tshaj yog rau paj rwb, uas yog ib tug luv luv staple fiber. Qhov ntev ntawm cov paj rwb fiber ntau, nws yooj yim dua rau tig. nyob rau hauv ib tug smoother yarn. Paj rwb yog ib qho zoo heev fiber ntau nrog me ntsis variation ntawm fiber ntau txoj kab uas hla; piv nrog ntaub plaub, piv txwv li, nws txoj kab uas hla fiber ntau tsis suav tias yog qhov tseem ceeb ntawm fiber ntau raws li nws qhov ntev. Cov fiber ntev rau qhov dav ntawm cov paj rwb yog li ntawm 6000: 1 rau qhov ntev tshaj plaws thiab zoo tshaj plaws rau txog 350: 1 rau cov paj rwb luv thiab coarsest. Qhov ntau dua qhov piv no, qhov yooj yim dua tuaj yeem ua cov paj rwb fibers tau spun rau hauv xov paj. Paj rwb fibers sib txawv nyob rau hauv cov xim ntawm ze li ntawm dawb mus rau lub teeb tan. Cov xim ntawm paj rwb fibers nyob ntawm nws hom ib puag ncig cov av thiab kev nyab xeeb nyob rau hauv uas nws yog zus Cov paj rwb fibers yog ib qho cog ntawm tes. Nws cross-section yog oval. Nyob rau hauv lub microscope, cov paj rwb zoo li ib tug twisted ribbon los yog ib tug vau thiab twisted raj. Lub convolutions thiab lub raum-zoo li tus ntoo khaub lig-section ntawm paj rwb fiber pab kom nws tsuas random sib cuag nrog daim tawv nqaij. Hom kev sib cuag no yog sib haum nrog tib neeg daim tawv nqaij physiology thiab yog li ntawd ntau xis nyob.
Cov paj rwb polymer yog linear cellulose polymer. Nws cov txheej txheem polymer yog li ntawm 65-70 feem pua ntawm crystalline thiab, sib piv, txog 35-30 feem pua amorphous. Yog li paj rwb yog crystalline fiber, thiab nws yog ib qho inelastic vim nws cov crystalline polymer system, thiab vim li no paj rwb textiles wrinkle thiab crease yooj yim. Txwv tsis pub, cov paj rwb fiber ntau yog absorbent heev vim muaj suav tsis txheeb polar-OH pawg hauv nws cov polymers; cov no nyiam cov dej molecules, uas kuj yog polar.
Paj rwb fibers tsis muaj zog thiab puas los ntawm acids. Mineral los yog inorganic acids, muaj zog dua cov organic acids, yuav hydrolyze paj rwb polymer sai dua. Txawm li cas los xij, paj rwb fiber ntau tiv taus alkalis thiab tsis cuam tshuam los ntawm kev ntxhua khaub ncaws. Mercerizing yam tsis muaj nro, los yog slack mercerizing, ua rau paj rwb fiber ntau o. Nrog mercerizing nyob rau hauv nro, uas tsuas yog nqa tawm ntawm paj rwb xov paj los yog ntaub, me ntsis o los yog fiber contraction tshwm sim. Cov fibers tawm nrog nce tenacity thiab nrog ib tug txawv, tab sis subdued luster.
Flax
Lo lus flax yog muab los ntawm cov lus Askiv qub. Linen yog lo lus siv rau cov xov paj spun los ntawm flax fibers, thiab rau daim ntaub los yog ntaub woven los ntawm cov xov paj no.
Flax fiber yog cais raws li ntuj, cellulose, bast, multi-cellular fiber. Nws muaj .fiber ntom ntawm 1.50 g / cm33, thiab suav hais tias yog ib qho hnyav fiber ntau. Nws muaj qhov ntev ntawm li 10 cm mus rau 100 cm, nruab nrab txog 5o cm ntev. Tus nqi ntawm flax yog ncaj qha proportional rau nws fiber ntev.
Chemically, flax polymer yog tib yam li paj rwb polymer; ob leeg yog cellulose polymer Lub cev, cov flax polymer txawv ntawm cov paj rwb polymer, nyob rau hauv hais tias nws muaj ib tug degree ntawm polymerization ntawm txog 18000. Qhov no ua rau nws paub ntev tshaj plaws, linear textile polymer. Cov txheej txheem polymer ntawm flax yog crystalline ntau dua li cov paj rwb, vim nws cov polymers ntev dua. Flax yog ib qho muaj zog fiber ntau vim tias nws yog crystalline polymer system tso cai rau nws cov polymers ntev heev los tsim cov hydrogen bonds ntau dua li paj rwb polymers.
Raws li kev cai lij choj zoo sib xws ntawm paj rwb thiab flax, cov lus piav qhia rau cov khoom siv tshuaj ntawm paj rwb kuj tseem siv tau rau flax.
Viscose
Viscose yog tib neeg tsim, natural polymer, cellulosic los yog regenerated cellulose filament los yog staple fiber.
Cov txheej txheem polymer ntawm viscose zoo ib yam li cov paj rwb. Txawm li cas los xij, muaj qee qhov sib txawv. Lub viscose polymer system yog amorphous heev, yog li ntawm 35-40 ib xees crystalline thiab li ntawm 65-60 ib xees amorphous. Nws cov polymers luv luv ua rau nws nyuaj rau ua tiav cov txheej txheem crystalline polymer ntau dua. Vim tias cov txheej txheem polymer ntawm viscose yog amorphous heev, nws cov filament lossis staple fibers tsis muaj zog dua li paj rwb thiab tsuas yog muaj kev ncaj ncees. Thaum ntub, viscose tsuas yog ib nrab muaj zog li thaum nws qhuav. Yog vim li cas rau qhov no yog ib qho tseem ceeb heev amorphous ntawm nws cov txheej txheem polymer uas nkag tau yooj yim tso cai nkag ntawm cov dej molecules. Cov no thawb cov polymers sib cais ua rau muaj ntau cov hydrogen bonds, ua rau cov fibers tsis muaj zog thaum ntub dej.
Cov khoom siv tshuaj lom neeg ntawm paj rwb thiab cov cellulose regenerated fibers zoo sib xws, yog li cov lus piav qhia tau muab rau cov khoom siv tshuaj ntawm cov qub siv rau viscose fiber. Txawm li cas los xij, cov polymers luv luv thiab qhov xwm txheej ntawm cov cellulose fiber ntau yog lub luag haujlwm rau qhov kev nkag siab ntau dua ntawm cov fibers rau cov kua qaub, alkalis, tshuaj dawb, hnub ci thiab huab cua, thaum piv nrog paj rwb.
Tencel
Tencel, uas yog hu ua lyocell, yog ib tug regenerated cellulose fiber. Nws yog tsim los ntawm purified conifer ntoo pulp los ntawm hnyav spinning txheej txheem, nyob rau hauv uas cov purified cellulose yog yaj nyob rau hauv cov kuab tshuaj ntawm N-methyl amine oxide los ua spinning dope, ces cov spinning dope yog lim, thiab ces extruded los ntawm ib tug spinnerette los tsim ib tug spinning dope. filament.
Cov kuab tshuaj siv cov khoom siv ntawm Tencel yog atoxic thiab ntau dua 99. 5 feem pua ntawm nws tuaj yeem rov qab tau thiab rov siv dua. Yog li kev tsim cov fiber ntau tsis ua rau muaj teeb meem ib puag ncig thiab hu ua 'cov txheej txheem ntsuab'.
Tencel ua pov thawj tias kev zoo nkauj tsis tas yuav tsum tau txi rau kev ua haujlwm ntev thiab kev ua tau zoo, Nws cov kav ntev tshaj li ntawm feem ntau ntawm ntuj los yog tib neeg tsim fibers, uas txhais ua cov xov paj zoo thiab cov ntaub thiab cov khaub ncaws uas tiv taus hnav thiab tsim kua muag. Thiab nws cov cellulosic puag tso cai rau lub breathability xwm npaj. Tencel yog thawj tus txiv neej tsim cellulosic fiber ntau zog dua paj rwb. Qhuav los yog ntub dej, thiab qhov ntawd mus txog lub zog qhuav ntawm polyester
Tencel tuaj yeem degraded los ntawm kev ua ntawm microbe, yog li nws kuj tseem suav tias yog 'ntsuab fiber ntau'. Nws muaj lub breathability thiab absorbency ntawm ib tug natural fiber, lub durability thiab yooj yim-care kev ua tau zoo ntawm ib tug txiv neej tsim, thiab ib tug smoothness, resilience thiab drape tshwj xeeb rau Tencel. Los ntawm cov kua nplaum los muab cov woven tailored, Tencel tuaj yeem hnav cov neeg siv khoom rau txhua lub sijhawm yooj yim. Nws yog qhov kos npe ntawm kev ua neej nyob niaj hnub no tsom rau cov txiv neej cov poj niam niaj hnub thiab kev zam hauv tsev.
